CHATURBARNA BIHARA AT SAKOTHA
To the east of the Darbar Square, there is a Budhist monastery which is famous as the Chaturbarna Bihara, which is dedicated to Padmapani Lokeswor, the second Dipankara of the Budhist religion. This monastery is supposed to have been erected in the time of King Raya Malla 500 years before by Taudi Dhan Bajracharya in 611 Nepal Sambat.
THE NYATAPOLA TEMPLE
Coming down we come to the spacious compound of Taumadhi Tole, where the ground and lofty temple of Nyatapola or the Five-Storied Temple stands high and majestic. This tempole was the fruit of the persistent labour of Raja Bhupatindra Malla. He had erected it in 1708 A.D. in order to quell the nuisance wrought by the all dreaded Bhairab whose temple lies in close proximity. It is dedicated to the all powerful Goddess Sidhi Laxmi of Tantra Sastra. In laying the foundation, the king himself had carried three bricks on his shoulder with the result that within five days all the materials needed for the erection of the temple were brought to the place by the people. It is said that on the auspicious moment of laying the foundation, a certain Jyapu (Peasant) sowed grains of paddy in his field and later on when he tried to pull them out he had to use a spade. This proves the stability of the foundation. That is why the temple did not fall to the ground even in the great quake of 1934 A.D. Only the topmost roof fell down.
This temple is pagoda shaped and stands on a base consisting of five elevated platforms. The staircase on each platform is guarded by two colossal figures, the last ones being those of Jai Mal and Patta, the two wrestling champions of Bhaktapur. Over them are the figures of elephants, lions, griffins (Sarduls), and the images of Singhini and Byanghini (Deities). They all represent the ratio of ten times powerful in strength, for example, the elephant is ten times stronger than man. But in reality they indicate that above all God or Goddess is the dominating factor and is the all-pervading and supreme unseen power. It is the tallest temple in Bhaktapur and is famous in the world for its gigantic height and structure.
THE BHAIRAB TEMPLE
The majestic temple of Bhairab Nath was reconstructed after the great quake of 1934 A.D. This temple was for the first time constructed in the time of Raja Jagat Jyote Malla (1617-1638 A.D.). It was then only one storied temple. Ten years after the erection of the Nyatapola temple, it was elevated and made a three storied one. There are five miniature golden windows in the centre of the altar. No one can utter even a word out of the windows except on the day of the election of the chief keeper of the temple, called the Munaya. The bronze lions and the golden roof with golden spires are very attractive.
THE TEMPLE OF DATTATRAYA
The temple of Dattatraya is a famous one. It lies at a distance of about half a mile from the Darbar Square on the eastern corner of the urban area of Bhaktapur. The whole temple was constructed out of the trunk of a single tree in the time of a Raja Yakshya Malla in about 1427 A.D. Later it was repaired by Biswa Malla. Every year this temple is thronged by hundreds and thousands of pilgrims from the various parts of India during the Shiva Ratri Festival. It is also said that beneath the temple there is a tank, the water of which gushes out of a stone water conduit.
Just behind the temple lies a monastery called the Poojahari Math. It is the residential abode of the aristocratic Mahanta of the temple of Dattarraya. From artistic viewpoint this monastery is the brightest gem of the ancient buildings in so far as it is adorned with the figures of peacocks in the centre.
At a little distance from it lies on the eastern side the temple of Wakupati Narayanwhich is so far considered as a lovely specimen in metal work.
Yakchheswor Mahadev
Durbar Square is the gem of Bhaktapur & one of the seven UNESCO world heritage monument zones in the valley. Situated at the heart of the city, Durbar Square was the seat of Malla royalties till 1769 A.D. Durbar Square includes palaces, pagoda and shikhara style temples, Buddhist monasteries and many more. Before the devastating earthquake of 1934 A.D. the square was packed with innumerable temples about 1/3 of which were destroyed in the earthquake. Stone sculptures, woodcarvings, metal crafts, the Art Gallery, the Taleju temple, the Golden gate, the Siddhi Laxmi Temple, the Fifty five windows palace, the Big belt, the Vatsala temple and the Pashupati temple are some of the finely architectured monuments that are worth the value if time one spends finding and observing them.
Bhaktapur, the city of devotees has innumberable masterpieces of monuments abundantly scattered throughout the city. There are around a hundred temples & a dozen “Maths” which belong to the ancient and medieval period beautifully decorated with masterpieces in wood, metal and stone. One can easily feel the aroma of the 17th century lifestyle while wondering through narrow tranquil paved lanes that open our into large squares courtyards. Each of these squares is like an open museum by itself.
Pashupati (a Shiva temple) constructed in a traditional Newari pagoda style stands proudly erect besides the Vatsala temple built in the contrasting Sikhara style at Durbar Square. It indeed is a glorious example of Newari architecture built by king Yaksha Malla in 1480 A.D. This two storied temple probably is the oldest temple dedicated tp Ualcjjeswpr Mahadev (one of the forms of Lord Shiva).
The temple can be called a substitution for the Pashupatinath Temple of Kathmandu. The construction of this temple has its own legend. Once, war broke between the then small kingdoms of Bhaktapur and Kathmandu. The devotees of Lord Pashupati who lived in Bhaktapur could not visit Pashupatinath temple in Kathmandu and people were very sad.
Realizing the problem, the king constructed the temple of lord Yakchheswor Mahadev with the same structures and the statue of Shiva Lingum as in Pashupatinath temple itself.
The temple having a square base has two levels of slanted rooft, triple doors at the four sides, large statue of Shiva Linga having foru faces on four sides and an ox in the worshipping position in front of the western gate.
The huge roofs are supported by beautifully carved wooden roof struts. The erotic scenes carved at the base of these struts usually surprise tourists, who understand Nepalese society as a very closed in matters related to sex and sexual activities. Obviously tourists are keen to learn about the reason behind having such scenes of various exhibitive postures being carved around temples. Some believe it is to ward off evil from the temples. Others believe it protects the temple from thunder-strikes because thunderbolts would shy away due to these scenes. Some advocate that it must be a part of the strategy of the rulers to increase population. In those days the valley used to produce much more than it could consume and the external trade was very low. It could also be a very strong type of Lord Shiva are expected to overcome as to become a genuine worshipper. What ever the reason may be, it surely makes people realize the level to which the society had been liberal in matters of sex to those days. In fact the whole theory of “Tantrism” is said to be based on the power of creation – sexual union which is an important aspect of Hinduism.
CHANGU NARAYAN
Bhaktapur, the cultural capital of Nepal, is renowned for its splendid art and architecture and is equally famous for its traditional and rustic lifestyle. The Changu Narayan Temple is the oldest temple of the Kathmandu Valley and is located approximately 6 kilometers north of the city of Bhaktapur . Ecotourists and nature lovers can walk up to the main temple complex from Bhaktapur in about a 2 hours. Alternatively, a regular bus service links Bhaktapur to Changu Narayan are nominal fee.
Unlike other monument zones of the Kathmandu Valley, Changu Narayan is located in a rural setting. The monument zone consists of the main Vaishnavite temple on the top of the hill with a still largely intact traditional settlement extending along the ridge towards the east. The current monument zone boundary also comprises vast plantations of pine trees in the south and west directions. Agricultural land located in the northeast direction sustains the lives of many people living there.
The Changu Narayan Monument Zone is district in comparison to the other monument zones of the valley due to the pollution-free and peaceful environment. The scenic natural beauty that extends in all directions of the hill further heightens the cultural feeling of the temple complex. The setting of the forests and agricultural land, an informal yet integrated mixture, creates a feeling of peace and tranquility and the still intact traditional settlement lying on the main route to the temple complex further heightens and stimulates the senses.
Historical evidence shows that even in the 5th century AD, the site of the Narayan temple at Changu had already been established as a sacred location. This can be proved by one of the oldest inscriptions found in the valley of the reign of the Lichhavi King Manadeva dating back to 464 A.D., which shows that Changu was a site of an important temple. Throughout the centuries that followed, the temple structure itself must have been destroyed and reconstructed several times. To leave a mark of their reign, the Lichhavi and the Malla kings periodically renovated and beautified the temple, while also adding new elements. The present structure was probably constructed during the late 17th century, though older elements have been incorporated during the many restorations.
The fact that the Changu Narayan temple is the most ancient and venerated Vaishnav shrine in Nepal speaks volumes as to the social, cultural and religious aspects of the Changu Narayan Monument Zone. The mythology behind the conception of the Changu Narayua temple also signifies the religious importance and significance. Accorking to the myth, Lord Vishnu beheaded a demon that was actually a Brahmin. It was only after he unknowingly carried out this heinlus crime that Lord Vishnu discovered the truth. He then wandered on earth on his mount, the ‘Garuda’ eventually descending on the hill at Changu. There he lived in anonymity, surviving on milk stolen from a cow belonging to a hermit sage called Sudharshana. When Sudharshana found our about the milk theft, he attacked and beheaded Lord Vishnu. This freed Lord Vishnu from his sins, allowing him to come out of his hiding. Since that day, Lord Vishnu has been worshipped against this background in Changu.
The religious and cultural structures of the monument zone include the Changu Narayan temple enclosed on all sides by the Dharmsalas or rest houses. The courtyard of the Changunarayan temple houses many exquisite and finely carved statues and inscriptions dating back to the Lichhave period. These structures are not only of religious and cultural significance but are of universal value as the cultural heritage of mankind.
The festivals celebrated at Changunarayan are a representation of the high order of social and cultural interaction present in the community of the Changu Narayan Monument Zone. Most families visit the Narayan temple each day for their morning prayers emphasizing the point that the Changu Narayan temple is an important part of the lives of the people living there. The traditional settlement consisting of beautiful houses made of sun dried bricks gives one the feeling of an era long lost but still conserved here in Changu Narayan. The laidback and peaceful lifestyle of the people is a warmly welcomed change from the noise, pollution and hustle and bustle of the neighboring Kathmandu.
Balkumari Square
It is the main square of the town. A picturesque setting of temples, idols and other monuments has made this square the focus of visitors' attraction. The most noteworthy temple here is Balkumari. This is one of the four kumari temples of Kathmandu valley. This temple is the biggest temple in Thimi. It is believed that this was rebuilt and changed into a triple roofed pagoda by Yakshya Malla (1428 - 1482 AD) in the fifteenth century. The three roofs are covered with metal sheets. The edges are decorated with brass peacocks. Two dhojas, two stone lions and two dibya ghantas are flanking the north entrance of the mandir. The mandir is built of dachi apa bricks. Originally the three sides of the temple were open. Today the side walls are closed by half high wooden railings which are covered with decorative brass sheets. The inside floor is covered with small mosaic tiles. The whole inside rear wall is covered with brass plates. A pillar decorated with a Bhairab figure is placed in the center of the inner room. The inside ceiling is covered with brass plates. A lot of coconuts are hanging from the ceiling. Near the Balkumari Pagoda lies Kwalakhu Pond. This pond is believed to be older than the Balkumari Pagoda itself. Behind and in front of the Balkumari Pagoda there are satals with Phalcha i.e. rest places with exquisitely carved wooden windows. Other landmarks here are a metal figure of a Peacock on a stone pillar, Bhairab temple, Shiva temple and a daboo - open air theatre where dramas and musical performances are exhibited.
Hembarna Mahabihar (Lokeshwor Mandir)
This vihar is the seceond biggest monuments of Thimi. Architecturally it is not a bihar, but it is regarded as the original bihar (bahal) in Thimi. It is in the form of two storey pagoda that was built in 1690 AD. The entrance of the small tiled sanctum faces north. The sanctum is surrounded with a wide veranda enclosed by a railing, which contains prayer wheels. A torana which is depicting Buddha Amitabha, Sariputra and Maudgayayana is placed above the entrance to the veranda. The outer circle of the torana is depicting a chaitya and makaras. The entrance of the sanctum is crowned with a torana, showing Buddha Amitabha flanked by the Dharma (Prajyaparmita) and the Sangha ( Sadaksari Lokeshvar). The sanctums walls are decorated with paintings of the 108 forms of Avalokitesvara. The kwaa dyo (major idol) is a small red faced image of Padmapani Lokeshwar. It is one of the twelve main Lokeshwaras in Kathmandu valley. It is less than a foot high. The top roof is covered with copper plates. The lower roof is covered with tiles. The second storey is made of very decorative carved wood. The carved roof status of the mandir are depicting incarnations of Lokeshwor. The temple walls itself are covered with multicolred tiles (yellow, pink, blue). A lot of pictures, mirrors and small figurines are fixed on the outside wall. A decorative brass gajur contains a big bell and two flags. A small shrine is standing in front of the pagoda. The south side of the shrine includes a 6 inch high stone image of Padmapani Lokeshwar. An image of Manjusri is palced on the eastern side and an inscription is placed at the northen side.
Hembarna Mahabihar (Lokeshwor Mandir)
This vihar is the seceond biggest monuments of Thimi. Architecturally it is not a bihar, but it is regarded as the original bihar (bahal) in Thimi. It is in the form of two storey pagoda that was built in 1690 AD. The entrance of the small tiled sanctum faces north. The sanctum is surrounded with a wide veranda enclosed by a railing, which contains prayer wheels. A torana which is depicting Buddha Amitabha, Sariputra and Maudgayayana is placed above the entrance to the veranda. The outer circle of the torana is depicting a chaitya and makaras. The entrance of the sanctum is crowned with a torana, showing Buddha Amitabha flanked by the Dharma (Prajyaparmita) and the Sangha ( Sadaksari Lokeshvar). The sanctums walls are decorated with paintings of the 108 forms of Avalokitesvara. The kwaa dyo (major idol) is a small red faced image of Padmapani Lokeshwar. It is one of the twelve main Lokeshwaras in Kathmandu valley. It is less than a foot high. The top roof is covered with copper plates. The lower roof is covered with tiles. The second storey is made of very decorative carved wood. The carved roof status of the mandir are depicting incarnations of Lokeshwor. The temple walls itself are covered with multicolred tiles (yellow, pink, blue). A lot of pictures, mirrors and small figurines are fixed on the outside wall. A decorative brass gajur contains a big bell and two flags. A small shrine is standing in front of the pagoda. The south side of the shrine includes a 6 inch high stone image of Padmapani Lokeshwar. An image of Manjusri is palced on the eastern side and an inscription is placed at the northen side.
Bakhachhen Mahadev (Oldest temple of Thimi)
This temple is the oldest temple of Thimi. It is located at Shiva Tole near Layekoo. As per inscription erected here this two tiered temple was built by Yakshya Malla in 1441 AD. Two stone lions are placed beside the entrance and two stone Nandi statues are facing the entrance. A wooden torana depicting Shiva, Ganesh, Kumar, Garuda snakes adn Makaras is placed above the carved wooden entrance doorframe. A statue of Mahadev is standing inside the mandir. A stone face of Bhirab is fixed in the masonry, right beside the entrance. Around this pagoda there are other temples and Buddhist stupas.
Inaya Square
This is square is also a picturesque square of Thimi. The major attraction of this place is Narayan Mandir. An inscription in a stone pillar in front of the temple was placed in 1501 AD (622 NS). It is constucted in a unique architecture the likes of which such we rarely find in other places. The temple is attached with pati where regular bhajan is conducted. This pati was built in 1585 AD (706 AD) with donations by Ganga Devi, the wife of Vishnu Malla (King of Bhkatapur 1548 - 1560). The Narayan shrine can be entered through the pati. The shrine is closed by a steel grid door. A small stone face of Bhairab is fixed into the western side of the base. Three modern cement plastered shrines are built on the three ground floor walls of the mandir. A statue of Laxmi is placed in the northn shrine, a statue of Narayan and Laxmi is standing in the eastern shrine and a statue of Saraswati is placed on the southern wall. The four sides sloping roof is covered with jhingati tiles. Terracota cocks are decorating the edges of the eave. A golden gajur is placed on the pinnacle of the roof. A statue of Garuda is standing on a stone pillar in front of the mandir. A small statue of Vishnu rests on a pillar beside the Garuda. In front of this mandir there is a statue of Shiva and one Buddha's chaitya. Another beauty of this square is the Raj Ganesh temple. The two storied roof of this temple is covered with copper plates and topped with a decorative metal gajur.
Digu Square
Digu square is a concentrated mass of temples and other monuments. Digu Bhairab, the focus of Digu square is considered as patron deity of Thimi. The two roofed mandir is standing on a natural stone plateform. A lot of nice carvings especilly at the entrance and the roof are the charcteristics of this mandir. The torans above the carved wooden door frames are decorated with Kalamakaras. The two roofs are mainly covered with jhingati tiles. Only the roof above the entrance is covered with brass or copper plates. Behind the timber entrance sits a brass Bhairab statue. In front of this pagoda, the Tongue boring festival of Thimi takes place. Around this pagoda there are many small temples and patis.
Gunakriti Mahabihar
This bihar is the oldest Buddhist monastery of Thimi. It is constructed in the architecture Hairmya style. It is situated in the main bazaar & the core area of Thimi. Two big stine lions are placed beside the entrance of the bihar. The brick paved courtyard of this bahal contains a small stone chaitya, a mandala and a statue of Sri Dandapani. The three storied main building is mud plastered and white painted. An image of Aksobhya is placed inside the shrine. The five fold window at the second story is decorated with a torana, which is depicting Mahakal and Vajrasattva. A partial overhanging roof which is carried by six plain roof struts is placed above the window. The gable roof of the building is covered with traditional jhingati tiles.
Siddhi Kali Square
This square is made up of cluster of temples, satals, patis, water conduits and other monuments. The major attraction of this area is Siddhi Kali temple. This temple was built in 1710 AD ( 831 NS) by Bimana Sinha Prajapati, his wife and Suman Dhari Prajapati who were sponsoring the construction works with a donation of two ropanees of land. Later it was renovated during the reign of King Bhupatindra Malla. There are idols of 28 deities inside the pagoda. Two Dibya Ghantas which are supported by stone frames are standing in front of the mandir. Carvings of dragons are decorating these stone frames. In front of the pagoda is a satal with fine wood carvings. There are nine water conduits, two satals and six phalachas among which only few are left today. There is Buddhist Chaitya, Saraswoti temple, Mahadev temple and other idols around the pagoda.
Gunga Chibaha (Square of several Stupas)
In Newari languag the word Gunga refers to nine and Chibaha to Buddhist Chaitya. This square consists of nine Chaityas therefore it is called Gunga Chibaha. The nine Chaityas are centrally placed on the courtyard on high raised platform. The major one is standing on a two stepped platforms. A shrine is built at the western side of it. This chaitya is copper plated which is surrounded with eight smaller chaityas. They all are of the same style. On the southern side of these stupas there is a satal. Small cement plastered Buddha mandir is standing beside the sattal. Three statues are placed in the mandir. A stone Mandala is standing in front of the mandir. A Dabu is built on the south eastern corner of the courtyard. A brick Mahakal mandir is standing at the north western part of the bahal courtyard. Three modern Sumeruchaityas and a mandala had been built beside the Mahakal mandir.
Pati Bihar (where the tallest copper statue of Buddha of Nepal is established)
This Bihar is situated in the north of the core area of Thimi. In the center of Bihar courtyard a big stupa is standing. Its architecture is same as that of Shwoyambhu Stupa of Kathmandu. Inside the stupa a twenty feet high copper statue of Buddha is established it is considered as the tallest copper statue in Nepal. Scenes of the life of Buddha are depicted on carvings above two windows. The dome of the stupa is cement plastered and white painted and the pinnacle of it is gold and copper plated.
Dyo Chhen
Siddhi Ganesh Dyo Chhen is located at NyahGah Tole. This three storeyed building is a masterpiece of mediaeval residential architecture ever found in Nagadesh and entire Madhyapur Thimi Municipality. This Dyo Chhen is primarily famous for the Golden window placed on second storey. It has also many artistically carved wooden windows.
Siddhi Ganesh Square
Passing through the gate of Dyo Chhen and turning right will lead to Siddhi Ganesh Square. This square is the most momentous square of Nagadesh. The main temple of Siddhi Ganesh stands among the patis and other monuments. The triple roofed temple is dedicated to Ganesh and it has many exquisite carved struts, supporting the massive overhanging roof.
Mahalaxmi Temple
This two roofed temple is located at Bhangu tole. It is an excellent example of mediaeval pagoda architecture. A torana of 1629 AD in this temple indicates that the temple is more ancient than that period. The struts of eight handed astamatrika and the artistic wooden windows are the major features of this temple. Around this temple there are monuments of Ganesh temple, Nasah Dyo and others.
Neel Barahi
Walking for few minutes towards the north from Tigani will lead to Neel Barahi. It is one of the four Barahis of Kathmandu valley. A Lichhavi inscription found in this temple indicated the antiquity of that region. The temple is situated in the center of Nil Barahi jungle. These days this place is renowned as a picnic spot and a place for watching monkeys and birds.
Divyashwori Temple (Lokanthali)
Lokanthali is the western settlement of Madhyapur Thimi Municipality and it borders Kathmadu Metropolitan city. The major attraction of this area is the Divyashwori temple. The temple was built by Saskrit scholar Dibyashwor Pant some one hundred years ago. The temple comprises an exceptional Bhagawati idol. In front of the idol there is a black shree yantra. There is a tradition to worship the shree yantra before worshipping Bhagawati. In the premises of this temple there are some shrines.